Monday, October 27, 2008

Alleppey (Alappuzha)

to see us lazing around in Alleppey, click on the link below


http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009143&id=1112916442&l=4b055dc6b6

Took a 12 hour government bus ride from Mysore to Alleppey. This was a great improvement over the private bus we had taken from Mysore to Kochi. The government bus is allowed in the public bus stations, and make regular toilet and food stops, in comparison to the private buses which are often not allowed into the bigger cities, and drop you off at some intersection on the outskirts of town, and tell you to take a taxi the rest of the way.

Alleppey, the famous backwater town, where everyone goes for their houseboat trip. After arriving early in the morning, we found accommodation at Sona guesthouse, which was simple, but quiet, cool, and with a very helpful host Joseph. There is not much in the town itself, but it does manufacture umbrellas there - and we got to find out why.

We looked around town, went to the beach - watched the locals paddling, and walked down the beach past lots of fishing boats. Joseph asked us if we wanted a houseboat, and how luxurious we wanted it to be, then recommended us to a couple of boat operators. (and I am sure he got some commission for this, but it is better to go with a recommendation, than choose from the multitudes yourselves). One operator was unable to take us on the day we wanted, but the second one was available, and convinced us to take 1 2-night trip. We are easily persuaded, but it proved to be an excellent decision.

Our houseboat came with a crew of 3, the captain (who sat out the front, steered, and rang a bell when he wanted engine changes), the engineer who lay next to the outboard motor and responded to the bells from the captain!!!, and the cook, who prepared the feasts for us and spoke a little English. What was missing was the commentary in any understandable form, waving of arms and nodding of heads can be difficult to interpret!!!! The houseboat was comparatively small - only one bedroom with ensuite (some were up to 5 double bedrooms), a dining/lounge room at the front where the crew slept at night, and a pokey bit out the back where the meals were prepared.

We headed off into the canals. Near Alleppey, we seemed to be in a procession of houseboats, and it is not even high season. Because we had a 2 night trip, we ventured deeper into the canal systems, and so often were the only houseboat in sight!! The second day when we were more isolated was especially nice.

The canals are often higher than the fields, so it was strange to look down several metres to the people working in the rice paddies. There are whole communities in the backwaters, with cottages on tiny strips of land on the levies. The schools had boats rather than buses to get the kids to and from school, and there were lots of canoe-style ferries, and a few motorised ferries for longer distance travel. Life on the canal took place in front of us, which gave us lots of great photo opportunities. We regularly heard the crack of washing being flogged on the rocks. It seemed ongoing all day, not just a morning routine. Everything happened in the canal, daily ablutions, clothes washing, dish washing & pan scrubbing. The chooks, goats, cows, dogs and cats roamed around as well, there were shops, schools, lots of churches and church schools, adn then there were the workers - diving to the bottom of the river to collect sand and mussels, transporting rocks, hay, timber, rice, farm machinery etc. there was plenty to watch as we sat idly on our lounge chairs.
After 2 relaxing days we returned to land and the life of the budget traveller.

to see us lazing around in Alleppey, click on the link below

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2009143&id=1112916442&l=4b055dc6b6